Thursday, March 3, 2016

Six Weeks in Syria: Resilience


February 29th 2016
Resilient People

“Judgment Day is for those who fear God, and those who fear God would never do what we see is being done today.” Words of wisdom from my grandfather on the world today.

Sometimes hours go by before any of us realize the electricity is back. Syrians have had a long history of being very resilient people who make due with what they are given. You take away their electricity, they learn to accommodate and adjust with the sunlight hours. Some have even found the ability to develop small batteries to operate their significant appliances. Take away their bread, and they go and scrape up whatever ingredients they can afford to bake it from scratch at home. Syrians are craftsmen since the dawn of time and never take for granted the greatest tools on the planet—their two hands.

This is most probably why they have faced one of the greatest tragedies in human history. Syria was a strong self-made country of self-sufficiency. My childhood memories consist of cracked streets contrasting with modern malls that had no Starbucks, no McDonald’s and no Chili’s—all franchises that reside proudly in every other Arab country I have visited. When one sets foot in the country whose capital is the oldest inhabited civilization in the world (let that sink in for a moment and envision the weighty history in its walls), one can only expect handmade authenticity.

Today we walked ten minutes from our house to a nearby vintage marketplace known as the Tkiyyeh Sleimaniyyeh. For as long as I can remember, this has always been my most favorite place to visit because of its antiquated perfection. It was the indulgence in my lifelong dream to become an archaeologist; a dream that had been unfortunately squashed in its youth by a “religious” studies teacher who told me it was a ridiculous and useless field of study.

Now, as I learn more and more with every exhibition I host in A Country Called Syria, I kick my poor ten-year-old self for letting such a bitter spirit smear what has been my calling. Being a jack-of-all-trades however, I’ve learned to find passion in everything I pursue and God looped me back into archeology and history so wonderfully.

The Tkiyyeh was as beautiful as ever and yet drastically different. While a majority of the antique shops remained in existence, a brand new section of miniature shops had recently been opened, by a company geared at showcasing the brilliant craftsmanship of Syria. It was breathtaking to walk into shop after shop of places that had thousand-year-old looms still in use right before you to make towels and wall hangings. Another shop sold homemade jams and a variety of fruit molasses. One shop sold handmade crochet pieces and another sold the colorful silky fabrics known as Damask. I ended up in tears for too many reasons to list, but here are a few.


Syria is a treasure in and of itself. Its history and its soil and its landmarks, all make up the phenomenal gold that it is. We have stories of so many different civilizations and eras, villages and journeys. We have spectacular trades and talents that are still alive today. From glassblowing, to copper and brass making, to woodworking, Syria established it all to create its one of a kind empire and it kills me to see it being demolished piece by piece. I mean just imagine the loss of this wealthy element of life being destroyed?

A very painful dark depression was settling upon my skin as I inspected each artifact and creation with mesmerized passion. How can the world stand by and let this incredible country disappear? How can anyone dare demolish such beauty and history? This is life and it is slowly but surely being erased and for what? What will the future generations have left of Syria? Landmarks have been bombed and crushed. People, with valuable knowledge, are being killed. Blood is flowing faster than our drying rivers.

I walked in to quite a few fabric shops at the marketplace, most who were run by older men. They each took the time to diligently explain to me the large ceiling to floor loom beside them and how it crafts the fabric I’m seeing displayed in the shop. They told me the history of the looms and the trade of creating these pieces. How many of the people in my generation have taken it upon themselves to uphold these traditions and learn these trades so that they do not die with those my grandparents’ age?

It was a definite shake my head and cry my eyes out moment. I was glad to see that this company had opened up these shops to educate on the various trades and I hoped that more youth took the time and effort to go and learn about what their country has offered the world. Because when they do, and they recognize the value of this talent and this millennia of history, they will be more cognizant of the need to fight for it and protect it.